The Balmoral Hotel, Edinburgh's crown jewel, launching point to history (2024)

In a city teeming with majestic buildings, Edinburgh’s The Balmoral Hotel is a grand old lady from the railway era who has yet to lose her beauty, majesty or grace. Originally opened in 1902 as the North British Station Hotel, The Balmoral has just been named one of the top hotels in the world for 2024 by Hotels.com.

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That’s a fair feat for a hotel that opened more than a century ago before many of the creature comforts we take for granted today were invented or at least commonplace, like elevators.

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The Balmoral still features elements of that bygone era like hallways and staircases built far wider than we would see today so that ladies of the early 1900s could pass each other with their large puffed-out dresses. While that’s not a concern today, the extra space, the roominess of it all adds to the feeling and the aura of grandeur that permeates the hotel.

Situated at 1 Princes St. in Edinburgh, right above the Waverly train station and just a 10-minute walk from Edinburgh Castle, The Balmoral is a landmark in its own right. The clocktower standing high above the “new town” is famous for being set three minutes fast so that travellers don’t miss their trains.

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Where has Edinburgh been all my life?

It was a train that took me from Glasgow to The Balmoral and if I have my way, it won’t be the last visit.

That’s saying something given my upbringing.

My whole family has ties to Glasgow, the “cross-country” rival to Edinburgh. To listen to my family growing up, the best thing out of Edinburgh was the bus to Glasgow. Over the years, while visiting family in Scotland, I’ve dipped in and out of the capital city of the Ancient Kingdom, but I’ve never stayed there.

This trip has changed that and any future visit to Scotland will include plenty of time in this royal city.

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Scotland’s capital, with just over 500,000 people in the city proper, is the perfect walking vacation. The Balmoral, sitting between the old and new parts of the city, is the ideal location for exploring all that Edinburgh has to offer on foot.

Not sure where to go? Just ask the men at the front door for directions, recommendations and more. They will likely set you up with a map and whole itinerary in just a few short minutes.

It’s that level of service, that level of attention to detail that has led to The Balmoral being named to the “Perfect Somewheres” list for 2024.

Top hotels in the world recognized

The Perfect Somewheres list gathers the top 1% of hotels that the team at Hotels.com describes as the “crème de la crème” of experiences. The company said in a statement that properties were “selected based on proprietary guest experience data, which factors in traveller reviews, interactions with staff, ratings on property facilities and condition.”

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There are roughly 700 properties that were selected worldwide with 60 of them in Canada.

In announcing The Balmoral being on the list, Hotels.com said this property is “for the traveller seeking quiet luxury, history, tradition and timelessness.” Quiet luxury is a good term for The Balmoral as the quality of the amenities and the high level of service are luxurious without feeling ostentatious.

The staff at The Balmoral make you feel like you are at home. Home in a wonderous, castle-like building, but home nonetheless. From the perch at The Balmoral last week, I was able to take in ancient history, Victorian buildings, shopping as well as dining both high and low.

Fish and chips anyone?

Get on your walking shoes and explore

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While there are excursions you can take like bus tours of the highlands, a trip to the golf course or shores of St Andrews, the reality is you don’t need to leave the city to have an incredibly rewarding and adventurous experience.

After fully exploring the castle and the stunning Royal Mile – both must-do activities – I stopped and asked the concierge at the front door of The Balmoral for advice. We spoke about a few of the options I was considering and moments later I was given directions to an even better experience thanks to the expert local knowledge at hand.

Dean Village is a favourite spot for Harry Potter fans in Edinburgh. In fact the city is filled with connections to Potter, including the room where J.K. Rowling finished Deathly Hallows at The Balmoral. The walk from the hotel to the village is about 30 minutes, more if you keep stopping to take pictures, as I was doing.

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Once there you feel like you’ve left the city for a village in another time and place. Potter fans believe this location is the inspiration for Hogsmeade in the book series.

Even for those who have never read the books, the stunning scenes make it worth the trip. Thanks to the advice from The Balmoral’s knowledgeable staff, the journey continued along the Water of Leith Walkway before popping out in Stockbridge, an Edinburgh neighbourhood, for a delicious lunch at The Scran and Scallie gastropub.

For history buffs, walking the old town will put you face to face with the people who shaped the Age of Enlightenment and Victorian era. Adam Smith, David Hume, Sir Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson, David Livingstone and names from further back in history like King James VI, as he is known in Scotland, or John Knox, the man who started a religious revolution.

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Edinburgh is one of the top tourist destinations in Europe and once you visit you’ll understand why.

About The Balmoral

Built in 1902, the hotel features 187 rooms in total including 20 suites that have played host to royalty – one of the suites is named for the late Queen Mother – as well as celebrities like Mick Jagger and Bruce Springsteen. According to internet rumours, it is where Taylor Swift will soon be staying on her tour.

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Getting There

WestJet offers direct flights to Edinburgh from both Calgary and Toronto, while Air Canada offers flights from Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal and Vancouver. Anyone flying into Glasgow can catch an easy 45-minute train ride that drops you at Waverley Station right below The Balmoral.

Local transportation

Taxis abound in Edinburgh, while ridesharing apps like Uber are present, but not as reliable as in North America. Local buses and tramways are easy to navigate and a visit to the port at Leith and The Royal Yacht Britannia will cost just two pounds and take about 15 minutes.

Where to eat

The Balmoral features the award-winning Number One for fine dining, open Thursday through Monday. Also on site are Brasserie Prince for meals from breakfast through dinner, Bar Prince for a pre- or post-meal co*cktail and Palm Court for morning coffee or afternoon high tea.

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Nearby, there are many choices with a variety of cuisines and price points. If looking to tame the meal budget, look for specials at lunch for a larger meal or discounts for eating supper between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m.

For a quick coffee or meal on the go, check out Costa, Mor Bakehouse or Greggs.

Where I ate

Berties Proper Fish and Chips is the place for classic, fresh fish and chips or try one of their modern twists on this definitive Scottish meal. Also, in Edinburgh they use sauce on their fish suppers, so do like the locals and get saucy.

Petit Paris in the Grassmarket is a hidden gem. They offer full meals from 13 pounds as part of an early bird special. When you need a break from having chips with everything, head here.

The Lookout sits atop Calton Hill and offers stunning views of the city below, including The Balmoral and Edinburgh Castle. They offer a set menu on the fine dining side, but if you like deer loin, hand-dived scallops and impeccable service, this is a spot to try. You’ll marvel at the food and fall in love with the view.

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To call Fingal in Leith unique is an understatement. A former lighthouse service ship, this former seagoing vessel is now permanently in port and has been converted into a boutique hotel with an incredible restaurant. Now a sister ship of The Royal Yacht Britannia, the food and the service here will have you feeling regal.

Angels with Bagpipes on the Royal Mile is a perfect stop for some small sharing plates when you need a bite, but not a full, heavy meal. Don’t be afraid to try the haggis bon bons here, served with a whisky cream sauce. The cod goujons will give you a bite-size serving experience of fish without the chips.

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